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Martina Bohn

Octopus dish with gnocchi at Oviedo restaurant
Food

My favourite three seafood restaurants in Buenos Aires

Despite Argentina’s fame for steaks, my favourite restaurants in Buenos Aires served amazing seafood dishes.  Below are my top three.

Oviedo in Recoleta is a lovely neighbourhood restaurant, offering great service in an upmarket setting.  I loved the octopus starter dish and their impressive selection of fish for mains.  It feels a bit old fashioned but in a cute way.  Find the restaurant at Antonio Beruti 2602, 1425 Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires.

Octopus dish with gnocchi at Oviedo restaurant

Octopus dish with gnocchi

Hake fish with pak choi and tomatoes

Hake fish with pak choi and tomatoes, a main dish at Oviedo restaurant

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the most hip atmosphere and superb dishes, Proper in Palermo gets my vote.  From the outside it’s hidden when closed and looks more like a garage than a restaurant, but once open, it’s buzzing and quickly fills up around a large communal table.  All food are prepared in the open-plan kitchen at the back of the restaurant.  Everything is beautifully put together and served by cool staff.   If you haven’t got a reservation, get there when it opens around 8pm.  Find it at Aráoz 1676 in Palermo, for reservations call + 54 11 4831-0027.

Delicious squid dish at Proper restaurant

Delicious squid at Proper restaurant in Palermo

Dessert at Proper restaurant in Buenos Aires

Devine chocolate mousse served at Proper

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another restaurant with great ambience is La Mar in Palermo Soho offering several different ceviches.  I loved their garden courtyard, which is a great evening spot to enjoy a pisco sour to start your meal.  Find it at Arévalo 2024, cross road with Nicaragua.

Ceviche dish at La Mar restaurant

Ceviche with mixed seafood at the La Mar restaurant in Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh and by the way, all of the above restaurants are also offering meat dishes.  And of course, I had some amazing steaks in Argentina, the quality of the cuts are fantastic, but I was getting very frustrated by the lack of ‘rare’ done steaks.  I am yet to discover rare cooked meat in Argentina.  For now, my advice is, always order ‘rare’ or ‘raro’ and you might end up with a medium cooked piece of meat.

Places

Cuba Libre!

With the passing of Fidel Castro, the caribbean island was certainly in the limelight this week.  Cuba is an exciting place to visit, its intriguing to experience the mix of home stays, the casa particulares, or to have a drink in a retro 1970s concrete top end hotel.  I dined at some fascinating restaurants, the best places I found are run from converted living rooms or private homes, and I loved the eclectic scene of Havana. Below are some of my favourite restaurants and places.

elCocinero is not only a super cool bar and restaurant to head to in Havana, it also serves as an interesting art house.  Once inside, you could easily be in Miami rather than in state run Cuba.  Its on the outskirts of Vedado, an area close to central Havana.  Booking is essential, call +(537) 832 2355 for reservations.

One of the most intimate restaurants I came across in Vedado is Porto-Habana, which is located inside an apartment in one of the many high-rise residential blocks in Havana.  You would not spot this restaurant from the streets, but rest assured, as soon as you approach the building, some helpers usher you into the bleak lift, taking you upstairs, where you step out into this retro glamour style restaurant.

View from the outdoor balcony at the Porto-Habana restaurant.

View from the outdoor balcony at the Porto-Habana restaurant.

Another great restaurant to head to in Vedado, is Atelier.  Call +(537) 836 2025 for reservations. For central Havana, La Guarida has almost become an institution amongst the food scene in Havana, its an amazing theatrical place, through its firmly on the tourist map.

I stayed at the Artedel Luxury Penthouse in Havana, a superb homely place in the heart of Vedado.  Great care is taken at the Artedel to help you with all your travel needs, booking restaurants and making arrangements, which in Cuba are all down to personal contacts.

The living room at the Artedel penthouse is full of iconic art memorabilities.

The living room at the Artedel penthouse is full of iconic art memorabilities.

One of the bathrooms in the Artedel Penthouse.

One of the bathrooms in the Artedel Penthouse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other areas I explored in Cuba were Vinales and Trinidad

Fields in Vinales

Fields in Vinales

Onion shop in Trinidad

Onion shop in Trinidad

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yellow house in Trinidad

Yellow house in Trinidad

Cyclist in Trinidad

Cyclist in Trinidad

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Red door in Trinidad

Red door in Trinidad

Old car in Trinidad

Old car in Trinidad

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Coppelia's state run flagship ice cream parlour in Havana opened in 1966. Designed by Mario Girona.

Coppelia’s state run flagship ice cream parlour in Havana opened in 1966. Designed by Mario Girona.

A private bathroom in Trinidad

A private bathroom in Trinidad

Martina in Trinidad wearing a dress made by London label D4DISCUS, using vintage fabric.

Martina in Trinidad wearing a dress made by London label D4DISCUS, made from vintage fabric.

Obscure Objects of Desire

Open studios jewellery edit, London

End of November was open studio weekend in London.  I spent most of my weekend going around the open studios, checking out latest designs and news from the designer-makers.  For the November open studios, I managed to visit the studios in the Chocolate Factory in Stoke Newington, Craft Central in Clerkenwell and Cockpit Arts in Bloomsbury.  Here is my edit of some of my favourite jewellery pieces.

Necklace

Necklace by Ejing Zhang

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